When Young Indians (Yi) Nagaland chapter recently initiated and organized an exposure trip to Moreh (Manipur) and Tamu (Burma), the team knew that it would be an exciting trip indeed.
The team members knew well that the border town on the Indian side was an interesting spot where one could buy things — both legal and illegal — dirt cheap.
Those who visited the town earlier recalled drinking cans of Coca Cola in Moreh when the same soft drink was not available in India.
The imageries of Moreh had fascinated the team members as it enlivened memories of cowboy towns in Louis L’Amour novels — lawless and mysterious – one could find anything like one was shopping on a trader’s paradise.
The 13-member team left Nagaland late a Sunday afternoon. It took them less than four hours to reach Imphal. Despite some bad stretches from Mao to Maram, the team’s drive down Imphal valley was absolutely breathtaking.
The Barak river snaking past the mountains into Peren district with lush green fields on its banks was amazingly beautiful. The original plan was to halt at Imphal for the night and leave for Moreh early next morning. The team however ended up leaving at around seven in the morning.
The drive across Imphal valley was enjoyable for more than just the view. The roads were really good and quite surprisingly wide. Yi Nagaland team members reached Pallen soon and were instructed to be extra careful about their security. Pallen is the last checkpoint before leaving Imphal valley and heading into Chandel district.
As the vehicles snaked up the mountainous roads, the Yi members were reminded that things could be different there since they had to stop regularly at numerous checkpoints by Manipur commandos and Assam Rifles.
In the stretch of about 80 km, the team was stopped six times for security checks. They were asked to park their cars, flash identity cards, give details of the vehicles and so on. What was intended to ease public security turned into a hassle of different kind.
The standard procedure before the last check on approaching Moreh is that all the occupants of the vehicles get down and stand in a queue to show their identity cards. Then the security forces take out the luggage and go through each of them. The experience was even worse when the team came back.
The expectation that Moreh would be dotted with good buildings and organized infrastructure was shattered. Instead one could see dilapidated wooden buildings that were quite haphazardly constructed.
It was obvious that the local people there were not benefitting from all the trade activities in the town and that the town was just a transit point for goods while most financial transactions take place outside.
The other side
On the other side of the border, things looked much more promising. There was an immediate impression of order as Yi Nagaland team crossed the border. The roads were wide and well-maintained.
The sidewalks and pavements were all clean and it was obvious that the infrastructure has been carefully planned. It was a tale of two towns: one organized and clean, the other dusty, shabby, unplanned and cluttered.
Tamu is like any Southeast Asian town but it surprises one that things change suddenly as anyone crosses the bridge into Myanmar. The environment and surroundings all seemed so different. The food changes drastically.
It was amazing how a border, which one thought was just a narrow stretch of land or a line, could be a signifier for changes that are much stronger and bigger than ‘this side’ and ‘that side’.
There were people of the same tribes inhabiting both the towns. However, the degree of national influence was all too palpable for all to see.
To say that Moreh International Market is interesting would be understating it. Most of what one gets in Hazi Park in Dimapur is sourced from here. Starting from clothes and umbrellas and even alcohol, it seemed as if one could get everything here.
There is so much potential for growth in the border area. The policy makers have to ensure that all those bills and recommendations and laws and policies do not just stay on paper. They must be implemented.
Tourism could be a real industry in the border area despite the current situation not showing much improvement.
If infrastructure and town planning could be improved with the government taking the initiative, the local people will definitely benefit from the measures.
All in all, the trip was an eye opener in terms of policy implementation for all Yi Nagaland team members. If one were to make the most of the opportunities that one sees even in the humble and dilapidated circumstances, one should also take responsibility and do what one can, apart from expecting those in power to do what they can.
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