In keeping with the spirit of the Indian Handloom & Textile day at Lakme Fashion Week, designers Swati and Sunaina, Rinku Sobti, Shruti Sanchet, and Swati Vijaivargaie along with Bollywood actresess Gauhar Khan, Lisa Haydon, Vidya Malwade today celebrated the rich heritage of hand-woven luxury.
The weaves of Banaras are the only surviving textiles in the world and the platform of the fashion week proved to be a perfect meeting point of the age-old traditions of the weavers and the high fashion designs.
Ardent followers of finely woven fabrics, Swati and Sunaina have worked with master weavers of Banaras to create heirlooms and keep the art alive.
They said their aim is to design gorgeous traditional textiles that can cater to the desires of the younger generation of sari wearers.
Their experiments with motifs, colours and placements have given a fresh impetus to the fabulous Banaras weaves.
“Our collection is about the intrinsic technique of very sound weaves. Through this line we have tried to get the weaver, who have been long forgotten to the front seat and try and given them their due. We have showcased a lot of fine sarees,” Swati and Sunaina said.
For Delhi-based Sobti, the chance to remember the weavers was a welcome challenge which she accepted with both arms open.
Bringing to centre stage the intricate work of the weavers in the Bajardiya cluster, the designer’s “Tassels” collection was a ode to beauty. Just like the tufts of pretty free hanging threads or cords that embellish fabrics, the tassels added rich extravagance to the fabulous weaves.
“I have done a lot of checks and have worked very closely with Banarasi weavers. I have used a lot of silk, nets. My collection may consist of a lot of weaves but the style, cuts and silhouettes are such that it will appeal to the younger generation as well,” Sobti told PTI.
Her muse Gauhar said it was an honour for her to walk the ramp for a cause, which is very relevant in today’s times.
“Rinku’s collection is all about tradition and fashion. The designs are very young and you can wear these garments with ease to any occasion you want- be it parties, weddings or for work as well,” said the actress, who wore a tasselled cropped top and black silk embellished lehenga.
Haydon turned muse for Swati’s line inspired by flat woven kilim and dhurries in India and people weaving them.
“In India flat woven dhurries are woven mainly in the villages of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Uttar Pradesh. Our collection inspired from the mauj dhurry,” Swati said Shruti, whose line was titled ‘Kashi to Kyoto’ said she has tried to bring together two spiritual cities together in her collection.
Motifs of nature from Kyoto like maple leaves, mushrooms, flower buds, abstract birds and floral laces were woven in exotic silver, gold and rose gold. The colour story was a strong one with azure blue, crimson, sapota, ivory, gold, deep purple and wine that created a grand melange of hues.
The luxurious fabrics that Shruti presented included brocades, gicha silk, sheer Bengal Dupion, cotton silk and Chanderi. Giving a Japanese touch to the creations there was intricate dori embroidery and surface ornamentation, which was the reinvention of Boro embroidery of Japan but now created in gold printing.
Silhouettes had a great blend of the Indian and Japanese shapes with obes playing an important part. Long sheer maxi coats, layered asymmetric tops, flared palazzos, cap sleeved short tops and a kimono blouse with skirt had a great Indo-Japanese feel.
“Who said that a Banarasi weaves inspired collection can’t be fashionable. Mine is a very contemporary and global collection, I have used a lot of kora fabric, which is popularly known as tissue and also a lot of sheer as it is the flavour of the season,” she said.
The designers collectively applauded Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s initiative to give the weavers a push via his Make in India campaign.